Author Topic: Check codes?  (Read 300 times)

Offline MILO851

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Check codes?
« on: September 22, 2020, 07:46:44 pm »
Having an issue on my 99 I was running hard and bike started running on one cylinder [seemed to at least] i pulled clutch and bike dies I  try restart and no juice in battery so i replace battery ...fires right up but engine light on
can i read codes? what do i need to use i have an obd for cars but i think port different on bike   any other way

Offline wytfut

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2020, 08:07:29 pm »
I'm pretty sure all OBDI are the same port. Our port is under seat, on frame.

I suspect your battery cable was loose OR the terminals possibly shorted on cover. The vibration frequency of our engines reek havoc on battery cables coming loose. Especially at hi revs. Before we updated to the fancy cables I had literally soldered the cables on 2 of our Xs at that time.

How tight were battery cables when you changed out battery.
All the OBD codes for our Xs are on this website I believe.

If coding battery, put volt meter on battery while engine running, should show around 13+ volts DC.
Let us know what you find... A lot of knowledge on this site
Bruce
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Offline Donkey Hotey

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2020, 02:10:18 am »
Isn't there also a check engine light that sets after the battery has been disconnected? It's been a few years since I've had a battery out but, that light resets itself after 3 or 5 ride cycles. Nothing wrong. A reader will also reset the code but, probably not an issue.

As for the engine cutting out, I second what Bruce said. The battery cables are easy to not install correctly because of being on the downhill side of the bike and tucked under the frame edge. I had this one strand me on the freeway after 40-50 miles of misfiring and things cutting out. I thought I'd make it home but, didn't. The positive cable was finger tight and got so hot from the loose connection that it melted the lead terminal, ruining the battery (I had bought the bike that way a week earlier).

Was either of yours loose when you took it off? How old is the battery?



Also: have you or did someone else already clean and redo the grounds inside the electrical box area? The top grounding point on the engine is bare aluminum, with a hex screw clamping the negative terminations to that point. It corrodes. I had another bike with oddball misfiring on a ride. It would die, then resume, then die. It eventually set a check engine light. Got it home. Opened up the electrical cover. The engine grounding point is visible just ahead of the oil filler hose in this picture: (yellow ring terminal and hex head).



That termination jumps to another ground point on the frame. If this area isn't 100% it will cause all kinds of random issues. Jamie and Marty carry a nice braided  jumper cable to go between the two ground points that improves on the factory part. Either make sure yours has it or make your own with a heavy gauge, highly stranded copper wire.


Even if all of that has been done, take out the screw and clean the terminal surfaces and the engine case with a wire brush or some sandpaper and reassemble. All electrical gremlins on this bike went away after cleaning and regrounding everything in there.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2020, 09:41:31 am by Donkey Hotey »
Greg
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1663 since 2017 (Deadwood) 0738 since 2018 (Babe) 1940 since 2019 (Sinclair)

Offline Bobbybhb

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2020, 06:45:42 pm »
Great info Greg.
Bobby B 1488

Offline MILO851

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2020, 06:24:36 pm »
so I cleared codes I had already checked battery cables was my first step. took for ride still not full power .

 I think it hydro locked as someone  put a sight glass on it before me showed full no air to be seen. I tried again to start and no turn starter click and try but couldn't turn.

drained both oil plugs some came out but sight glass full pulled spark plugs ...after several cranks it turned over really slow then got faster I was watching sight glass was pumping oil I could see ...put plugs in fired for second heard loud clanking  shut down immediately . could the sight glass area full cause bad stuff?

Offline Donkey Hotey

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2020, 11:37:45 pm »
If you were riding along down the road, there is nothing that would hydrolock the engine. If it were overfilled with oil, it would flood the transmission and primary case. It couldn't get to the pistons or crankshaft area of the engine. That's a separate compartment and it exhales through reed valves (one-way) into the primary.

The sight glass was a semi-popular aftermarket item back in the day for checking the oil level without the dipstick. I think the general consensus is that it's not a reliable method and doesn't tell you much except maybe how dirty the oil is.

Patience and one thing at a time: absolutely make sure the grounds I mentioned are freshly cleaned and reconnected. There is a factory jumper in there that really should be replaced before it fails (as I already mentioned above).

The computer setting the check engine light, poor cranking and everything else could be just as likely caused by a bad ground as a bad battery.

Are you saying you started it after draining the oil out?
Greg
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Offline MILO851

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2020, 08:55:02 am »
It was not battery cables. it was locked up.  starter was trying to turn it could not as engine was locked up .

 as to why I am not sure.

The compartment that sight glass is in was flooded with oil once I got it cranking it pumped oil out of that chamber.

yes I started for a split second as oil was moving .yes most oil drained .yes was very short time . yes was making a loud metal on metal knock . yes I shut down immediately yes it had oil pressure

I understand that sight glass is not an indicator of level. But if it shows nothing but oil it is still full of oil

I don't think overfilled as much as that it not leaving one chamber I am going check in primary today make sure stator or rotor no shot

I know usually not charging but gotta start with easy first

Offline wytfut

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2020, 09:03:51 am »
I've can attest that the site glass is nothing more than a pretty trinket or as Greg said to tell possibly how dirty oil is.

I was going by site glass at one time, and found out I had 1 quart in case. Glass said full.
Bruce
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Offline Donkey Hotey

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #8 on: September 25, 2020, 11:53:31 am »
Apologies if my explanation sounded simple. We get all kinds of skill levels of owners in here and we don't always know what you've done or are comfortable with. Major internal failures seem to be unusual but, not impossible or unheard of. It's possible that something mechanical has failed. Maybe a piston seizure, spun bearing or?
Greg
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Offline MILO851

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2020, 03:18:12 pm »
ok so primary off rotor and stator seem fine. no obvious damage or loose parts  .no piston or rod noise when going back and forth [with socket on crank] pulled cam chest cover no obvious damage  sound seems from front cylinder has compression in both cylinders so no broke piston..
are cam chains hydraulically tensioned? if oil pressure low or not present there, could it make loud tapping ?

Offline Donkey Hotey

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2020, 04:21:03 pm »
Nope, cam chain tensioners are spring-loaded, one-way clickers. As the chain wears, it will take another tooth and stay there forever.

The lifters are hydraulic, which could have collapsed if you lost oil pressure.
Greg
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1663 since 2017 (Deadwood) 0738 since 2018 (Babe) 1940 since 2019 (Sinclair)

Offline blackheart

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Re: Check codes?
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2020, 09:41:16 pm »
Check radial play of output side of crank.  Mine when I bought it at 6200 miles had spun the LH side main.  I did the tranny upgrade, ecm reflash, then rode it another 7800 miles before figuring out something was seriously wrong.  I'm surprised it ran.  It never knock except towards the end when a light audible knock could be heard.   Rods are both fed from right side.  It wasn't until I pulled the compensator that I saw damaged bearing. Probably had 0.015" radial play.  Just a thought.
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